Rio Arriba County, NM: A Road Trip full of Incredible Experiences!
Rio Arriba County, New Mexico
2020 Population: 40,363*
February 2025: Generally, we blog about small Incorporated towns, meaning those that have elected officials at the town level. This is as differentiated from an unincorporated community, which exists only by tradition and does not have elected officials at the town level and instead relying on services elsewhere, generally at the county level.
That being said, we do often visit unique small unincorporated towns that we want to share, like several that are located within Rio Arriba County, New Mexico. Located along the Colorado boarder, there are several incredible experiences in this county, accessible from rural Highways 64/84 heading south.
Also, see upcoming travel stories from Chama, Abiquiú and Española for more photos and details!
Rio Arriba County – A Brief History
The county was one of nine originally created for the Territory of New Mexico in 1852. Originally extending west to the California line, it included the site of present-day Las Vegas, Nevada. The county seat has been moved 4 times since 1880, finally settling at Tierra Amarilla where it remains today.
Near the Junction of the Rio Grande and the Chama river, across the bridge from San Juan Indian Pueblo, the ruins of San Gabriel de Españoles overlook a broad valley. Here, Captain Juan de Oñate settled his colony in1598. He laid out the first “acequia”, or irrigation system. Historical Trivia: Tradition gives the present San Juan acequia as the first one established by the colony and therefore, the oldest irrigation canal in the United States.
Captain Juan de Oñate also brought from Mexico about three thousand head for breeding and a thousand head for mutton. His livestock included 1000 goats, 300 black cattle, and 150 mares and colts. In April of 1695, De Vargas personally led the settlers from Santa Fe to Santa Cruz.
The only incorporated town in Rio Arriba County, Española was founded in the 1880s as a stop on the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. The railroad has disappeared, but the city has grown as the commercial center for the Valley’s smaller villages.
Cultural Trivia: Artist Georgia O’keefe was drawn to the area in the 1930s, but it wasn’t until 1945 that she purchased a dilapidated adobe home from the Catholic Church. For the next four years, O’Keeffe supervised its restoration, which was carried out by her friend, Maria Chabot. O’Keeffe finally made Abiquiú her permanent home in 1949.
Award Winning Agency
Experience the unexpected! Discover a wide variety of things to Do and See in Rio Arriba county
We have visited this area several times and continue to be impressed!
#1. Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad – station in Chama
The Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad station is located in Chama. It is a 3 ft narrow-gauge heritage railroad that operates on 64 miles of track between Antonito, Colorado, and Chama, New Mexico. The railroad is named for two geographical features along the route: the 10,015-foot high Cumbres Pass and the Toltec Gorge. Originally part of the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad’s narrow-gauge network, the line has been jointly owned by the states of Colorado and New Mexico since 1970.
- Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad – Google Maps – See location of Train Depot in Chama
- Schedules & Fares | Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad – see schedules and ticket prices
Learn more and see photos of our fall train ride and the town of Chama on our Travel blog article about Chama, NM.
#2. Monastery of Christ in the Desert – a place of beauty and contemplation!
The Monastery Of Christ in the Desert was founded in 1964 by Aelred Wall, O.S.B., with monks from the Benedictine Mount Saviour Monastery in Pine City, New York. In 1983 the monastery was received into the English Province of the Subiaco Congregation as a Conventual Priory. Then in 1996, it became an autonomous Abbey. As of 2019, there were about thirty monks. Learn about day visits and longer stays at their website:
- Visiting Us – Benedictine Abbey of Christ in the Desert
- Photo Gallery and Virtual Tour – Benedictine Abbey of Christ in the Desert
#3. Ghost Ranch – Incredible natural beauty with colors you have to see for yourself!
Ghost Ranch is a 21,000-acre retreat and education center in Rio Arriba County in north central New Mexico, United States. It is about 65 miles northwest of Santa Fe and 14 miles from Abiquiu, the nearest community. In the later 20th century, it was the summer home and studio of artist Georgia O’Keeffe, as well as the subject of many of her paintings. It often serves as a location for movie production. Ghost Ranch is owned by the Presbyterian Church (USA) and leased to and managed by The National Ghost Ranch Foundation, Inc. Be sure to reserve your day pass for hiking on your own – or book a guided tour.
Learn more and see photos of our visit to Abiquiu, NM
- Ghost Ranch (Georgia O’Keeffe’s House) – Google Maps
- Activities – Ghost Ranch – includes guided tours of all kinds
- Chimney Rock Trail End – Google Maps – amazing hike on site
- Echo Amphitheater – Google Maps – amazing hike north of Ghost Ranch
- Talus Natural Arch – Google Maps – amazing hike south of Ghost Ranch
#4. Tour the home and Studio of artist Georgia O’Keefe!
We enjoyed this tour immensely! What a cool opportunity to see how the world famous Georgia O’Keefe lived and work. The O’Keeffe Home and Studio reflects a blend of Native American and Spanish Colonial building styles, regional architectural traditions dating back centuries. The oldest rooms of the house were probably built in 1744. The house was expanded in the 19th century into a pueblo-style adobe (mud brick) hacienda, with rows of rooms organized around a common open space, or plazuela.
Learn more and see photos of our visit to Abiquiu, NM
- The O’Keeffe: Welcome Center – Google Maps
- Georgia O’Keeffe’s Homes – The Georgia O’Keeffe Museum – book a tour; they are very popular! be sure to reserve in advance
#5. Wonderful wineries near Dixon!
Over the past few years, we have visited all of these wineries… all are worth a visit!
- La Chiripada Winery – Google Maps
- Vivác Winery – Google Maps
- Black Mesa Winery and Cidery – Google Maps – we love the cat theme here!
- Events I Black Mesa Winery – this winery sponsors some very fun looking events and activities, including a Petroglyph Hike (guided tour information linked here)!
#6. Visit the Española Valley Fiber Arts Center, located in the town Española
I love a good yarn and fiber opportunity! The Española Valley Fiber Arts Center was founded in 1995 by a small group of weavers who learned that many families in the Española area had inherited looms but who had little knowledge of the techniques and heritage of Northern New Mexico weaving practiced by their grandparents. The group began to teach with donated looms and space in a local church, but quickly grew.
Learn more and see photos of our visit to Espanola, NM
#7. Explore the Puye Cliff Dwellings, of the ancient Puebloan people
The Puye Cliff Dwellings are the ruins of an abandoned pueblo, located in Santa Clara Canyon on Santa Clara Pueblo Reservation land near Española, New Mexico. Established in the late 1200s or early 1300s and abandoned by about 1600, this is among the largest of the prehistoric Indian settlements on the Pajarito Plateau, showing a variety of architectural forms and building techniques.
The Puye Cliffs complex includes two levels of cliff-dwellings and both surface and cave dwellings. The two levels of cliff dwellings, the mesa top and reconstructed ‘Community House’ are accessed by paths and about twelve stairways and ladders cut into the side of the cliff. One level of cliff dwellings is over 1 mile long and the second is about 2,100 feet long.
The site was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1966.
- Puye Cliff Dwellings – Wikipedia – Tours start at 8:30am and run on a 30 – 45 minute rotation. Gates close at 4pm Last Tour of the day 2:30pm. Open year-round from 8am – 4pm, weather permitting. No pre-booked reservations needed. Tickets can be purchased at Puye Cliff Dwellings when you arrive. Webpage link.
