Holbrook, AZ: See where Wigwams, Dinosaurs and Petrified Wood Intersect
March 2024: After crossing into Arizona from New Mexico, our first stop was the Petrified Forest National Park, which has fossilized redwood trees that are more than 200 million years old, as well as a surreal landscape of the Painted Desert. We continued on to the nearby Route 66 small town of Holbrook (pop.5,053*) – and were amazed to see that access to the Petrified Forest continues! And we were greeted by a collection of Dinosaurs! This place features its history in a unique and fun way.
Holbrook is the county seat of Navajo County.
Holbrook – A Brief History
Triassic Era
Long before anything resembling North America existed, the trees found today in the Petrified Forest National Park thrived over 200 million years ago during the late stages Triassic age. During the Triassic, almost all the Earth’s land mass was concentrated into a single supercontinent, Pangaea. North Pangea corresponds to modern-day North America and the fragmented predecessors of Eurasia.
The Triassic began in the wake of the Permian–Triassic extinction event; it was well into the middle of the Triassic before life recovered its former diversity. Reptiles, especially archosaurs, were the chief terrestrial vertebrates during this time. A specialized subgroup of archosaurs, called dinosaurs, first appeared in the Late Triassic but did not become dominant until the succeeding Jurassic Period.
I only bring up this geological history because it explains the origins of the Petrified Forest with respect to the age of the dinosaurs which i find so interesting! Learn more about the origins of the Petrified forest – FAQ from the park service.
Human inhabitants
The Holbrook area was inhabited first by the Ancestral Puebloans, then Puebloans, then the Navajo and Apache. In 1540, Spanish explorer Coronado searched for the Seven Cities of Cibola and camped some 60 miles east of Holbrook’s present location. Coronado sent an expedition west to find the Colorado River, and they crossed the Little Colorado (a Colorado River tributary) some twenty-five miles east of Holbrook and found a wonderland of colors they named “El Desierto Pintada” – The Painted Desert. The expedition was then led by the Hopis to the Grand Canyon.
U.S. settlements
After the Mexican–American War ended in 1848 the area was ceded to the United States. Shortly after, the U.S. Army sent three expeditions to the area known as Navajo Springs (a spring northeast of Holbrook). Soon afterwards a store and saloon were established at the confluence of the Rio Puerco and Little Colorado Rivers two miles east of Holbrook, and the area became known as Horsehead Crossing.
In 1876, Mormons emigrated from Utah and began settlements near Horsehead Crossing.
During 1881 and 1882, railroad tracks were laid down and a railroad station was built to supply wood and water and to freight supplies south to Fort Apache. The community was then named Holbrook after the first engineer of the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad.
The railroad sold a million acres to a Boston investment group which established the Aztec Land and Cattle Company, better known as the Hashknife Outfit. It leased another million acres of government land and became one of the largest cattle ranches to ever exist. Holbrook became its headquarters and quickly grew into a rough and tumble wild west town.
Wild West…
Holbrook was known as “the town too tough for women and churches” and in 1914 was said to be the only county seat in the U.S. that didn’t have a church (the Mormons had moved 25 miles south to Snowflake and Taylor and did not leave a church behind).
Navajo County was divided off of Apache County in 1895 and Holbrook became the county seat. The town of Holbrook was incorporated in 1917.
Early Tourism and a Meteorite!
President Roosevelt named the Petrified Forest (including part of the Painted Desert) a National Monument in 1906. Most of the Beale Wagon Road became Route 66 in 1926 and passed through both the Petrified Forest and Holbrook. Auto tourism started taking over the economy.
Arizona is famous for its huge Meteor Crater further west, but Holbrook also witnessed its own small meteor event. On a summer evening in July 1912, a meteorite with an estimated mass of 419 pounds exploded high in the atmosphere. An estimated 16,000 or more minor fragments rained down over Navajo County in an area approximately six miles east of Holbrook. The primary explosion was heard at least 40 miles away. The largest piece of the Holbrook Meteorite that has been recovered was found shortly after. It weighs 14.5 pounds and resides at Arizona State University in Tempe.
Tourism Today
While Holbrook began as a town of railroaders and cattlemen, outlaws and rugged lawmen, the town that began as a too tough for women and churches, is now branded as “too good to miss”.
Today it is a city steeped in Native American culture, Hispanic roots and pioneers from all walks of life. In this community is the heart of Navajo County, the gateway to the stunning Petrified Forest National Park and the trip that needs to be taken along Historic Route 66. Rich in diversity and welcoming to all, Holbrook is where your adventure begins.
4 Fun Reasons that Adventure Begins in Holbrook
#1 Holy cow, that is a lot of petrified wood!
While we were amazed by the spectacular specimens of petrified wood in the National Park, we were caught off guard by the sheer quantity of petrified wood specimens decorating the town and available for sale! Ever wonder why shops can sell actual petrified wood outside of the National Park? See this interesting FAQ from the park service to answer this question!
- Rainbow Rock Shop – Google Maps – this is the one with the classic dinosaur statue collection 🙂
- Jim Gray’s Petrified Wood Co – Google Maps – this one has super high reviews on google maps, with an astonishing amount of petrified wood available for sale
- Tribal Gift And Rock Shop – Google Maps – also gets super high reviews on google maps
- Stewart’s Petrified Wood Shop – Google Maps
- Petrified Wood Direct – Google Maps
#2 So many Dinosaurs!
As explained above, the forests that are now in the form of petrified trees (Triassic) existed many millions of years before dinosaurs thrived (Jurassic). And yet the many local dinosaur statues are a fun symbol of an epoch gone by!
#3 Small historic downtown along side the mid-century era Route 66 Kitch
We parked near the Navajo County Historical Society Museum building, then walked along Apache Avenue to enjoy the sights and have lunch. There is a block of restored traditional 1900s era historic buildings. The rest of the street is reminiscent of the Route 66 days with big signs and businesses easily accessible by car. We ate lunch at a Mr Maestas Mexican restaurant and enjoyed its kitschy decor.
- Navajo County Historical Society – Google Maps
- Mr Maestas – Google Maps – we ate here; good food and fun kitchy decor!
- Colonel Mustard Hot Dogs – Google Maps – top reviews on google maps
- Thanx-A-Latte – Google Maps – cute gift shop that serves a nice cup of coffee
#4 Route 66 classics – Love the Wigwam Hotel!
We left town using Business 40 (formerly Route 66) and were able to pull into the historic and still open Wigwam Hotel! This is a Route 66 classic and fun to see in person.
More to Explore!
Annual Events
- June: Old West Festival
- December: Annual Festival of Trees
- December: Annual Parade of Lights
- Holbrook Chamber of Commerce
- Holbrook City webpage
