Española, NM: More than a pass-through on your way to Santa Fe – 4 Cool Unexpected Cultural Discoveries!
Española, New Mexico
2020 Population: 10,526*
December 2021 / Updated Feb 2024: We have driven through Española multiple times over the years, including a stop by their Fiber Arts Center back in late 2021. The only incorporated town in Rio Arriba County, Española has a rich Spanish heritage and a cool low-rider car culture. Keep reading to see our favorite cultural experiences!
Española is located 35 miles north of Santa Fe, NM along Hwy 285 and just west of the Rio Grande River.
Española – A Brief History
Spanish Settlement
An expedition consisted of 200 soldier-colonists, many with their wives and families, nine Franciscan priests, several hundred Indian servants and allies, and thousands of heads of livestock. On July 11, 1598, a scouting party arrived at the village of Ohkay Owingeh, located at the confluence of the Rio Grande and Rio Chama. Here the expedition stopped, and renamed the village San Juan de los Caballeros, and thus Oñate and his companions established the first Spanish capital in New Mexico.
A few months later the Spanish settlers relocated their settlement to the west bank of the Rio Grande at the village of Yunque. The Spanish named this settlement San Gabriel. San Gabriel served as the official capital of New Mexico until 1609-1610, when the Villa of Santa Fe was established as the official seat of Spanish government.
Historic Catholic Mission Church – La Iglesia de Santa Cruz de la Cañada
The La Iglesia de Santa Cruz de la Cañada was constructed in 1733-1748 on the site of an older chapel dating back to early 1600s. It has been active in the community ever since. Today, Santa Cruz de la Cañada is known worldwide for its magnificent religious art and its unique colonial architectural style. Historical Preservation was completed in the late 1980s under the guidance of the Holy Cross Parish Restoration Committee
Railroad Era (source: Wikipedia)
The narrow gauge Denver and Rio Grande Railroad arrived in 1880, and extended in 1886 to Santa Fe. Española was the terminus of the line. The Española station included an engine facility along with a roundhouse and turntable so it could service the locomotives. The facilities were built but abandoned after six years as plans for the town had changed. Later, the Santa Fe branch became known as the “Chili Line” – part of an ambitious but unsuccessful proposal to connect Denver with Mexico City.
Business Boom Times
As the railroad route extended into what today is the downtown Española area, the railroad began selling lots in the area. Anglo merchants, mountain men, and settlers slowly filtered into Española. Frank Bond and his brother George, who were Canadian emigrants, would later arrive in the city. Together they established the state’s largest mercantile and a multi-million dollar wool empire. With them came economic growth and prominence. Frank Bond became mayor in 1907. In 1925 Española was incorporated as a city.
The importance of the railroad began to lessen as minimal passenger traffic and low shipments forced the railroad to close in 1941, with the tracks removed the following year. Many locals would become unemployed and would follow the railroad to Santa Fe, Albuquerque and central Colorado for jobs. Española’s population would fall dramatically and many homes in the downtown became abandoned. Most of the locals who remained would turn to farming as a way of life.
Post Railroad
With the beginnings of Manhattan Project in nearby Los Alamos, many locals eventually found jobs at the Los Alamos National Laboratory (LANL).
In the 1980s, many historical buildings and homes of historical significance were torn down for urban renewal. Española followed many other New Mexico cities in this trend, but in Española, it failed. More modern businesses began to move into town, but the growth of Española had now expanded east across the Rio Grande. Although several buildings of historical significance remain in downtown Española, many are unused or abandoned.
In the 1990s, the city agreed to a plan to build a “plaza” and mission church where many historic buildings once stood, as a tribute to the Spanish culture in the area.
Cultural Trivia: Española is considered by many to be the Lowrider Capital of the World!
small town vibe
Our 4 Favorite ways to experience area History and Culture!
Although it may be tempting to drive straight through Española on your way to Santa Fe, there are actually a variety of unique cultural opportunities to discover!
#1. Beautiful Historic Mission Churches
The American southwest has so many beautiful historic Mission churches, and Española happens to have an amazing share of them! See these examples in and around Española and get your camera ready!
The Spanish Missions in New Mexico were a series of religious outposts in the Province of Santa Fe de Nuevo México — present day New Mexico. They were established by Franciscan friars under charter from the monarchs of the Spanish Empire and the government of the Viceroyalty of New Spain in a policy called Reductions to facilitate the conversion of Native Americans into Christianity. (source: Wikipedia)
- Santa Cruz Catholic Church – Google Maps – “The historic Iglesia de Santa Cruz de la Canada – Mother Church of Northern New Mexico- built in 1733, has been designated a State and National Historic Site.”
- Sacred Heart of Jesus Church – Google Maps – historic adobe mission church
- Santuario de Chimayo – Google Maps – Colonial-style 1816 adobe church & a popular Catholic pilgrimage site known for its “healing dirt.” Free admission
- Santa Clara Pueblo Church – Google Maps – Santa Clara Pueblo is catholic mission among the people of a Tewa settlement
#2. Española Valley Fiber Arts Center – my Happy Place!
As I have stated many times, I LOVE the fiber arts – yarn and knitting in particular! So, when we saw that there was a Fiber Arts Center in historic downtown Espanola, we had to stop by. It has a wonderful mission to preserve the weaving skills of the area. It appears to be the only active business in what was once an active downtown, but the center itself is beautiful both inside and out (love the big murals on the side of the building!).
The Española Valley Fiber Arts Center was founded in 1995 by a small group of weavers who learned that many families in the Española area had inherited looms but who had little knowledge of the techniques and heritage of Northern New Mexico weaving practiced by their grandparents. The group began to teach with donated looms and space in a local church, but quickly grew. With the need to accommodate these new enthusiastic weavers, they moved to rented space in Española, hired a manager, and formally opened their doors for business in October 1996.
#3. Plaza de Española – visit the Bond Museum and a Veterans Memorial
A block away from the historic downtown of Española is a the relatively new Plaza de Española, which includes a variety of cultural things to see and experience.
- Bond House Museum – Google Maps – former home of the successful business man and former mayor, Frank Bond. It was added to the State Register of Historic Places in 1978, and on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980. In 1982, the San Gabriel Historical Society opened the house as a museum with its first exhibits.
- Española Valley Veterans Memorial – Google Maps
#4. Other nearby Culturally Significant Sites!
If you like indigenous history and culture, the area around Española has so many options!!! Not to mention Santa Fe and Los Alamos, both culturally significant towns with amazing things to do and see.
- Puye Cliff Dwellings – Google Maps (11 miles away)
- Poeh Cultural Center & Museum – Google Maps (10 miles away)
- Tsankawi Prehistoric Sites – Google Maps (14 miles away) – ancient Puebloan site with worn white sandstone trails, cave dwellings and beautiful scenery!
- San Ildefonso Pueblo – Google Maps (13 miles away)
- Mesa Prieta Petroglyph Project – Google Maps (28 miles) – 12 mile mesa wall contains over 100,000 petroglyph images!
- Bandelier National Monument – Google Maps (33 miles away) – ancient Puebloan site with many adobe building foundations and cliff dwellings – we highly recommend!
- Santa Fe – Google Maps (25 miles away) – a must see town!
- Los Alamos – Google Maps (18 miles away) – a town with a fascinating atomic bomb development history!
More to Explore!
I enjoyed doing online research to learn more about the deep cultural roots of Española!
Local Stories: Lowrider capital of America!
While researching Española, i came across information indicating the town is the popular “Lowrider” culture. Lowriders are exactly what they sound like: cars that ride low to the ground. But they also are also famous for creative bouncing hydraulics and their brightly colored, eye-catching paintwork by the artist featured in this 60 Minutes story!
- Lowrider artist Rob Vanderslice’s journey “out of the darkness, into the light” – CBS News (November 2024) – click link to access the CBS video.
- Española Lowrider Museum Facebook
Annual Events
- March: Española Day
- Summer: Farmers Market on Sundays from mid-June through October
- December: Electric Light Parade
Organizations that Support Community in Española
There are a variety of civic, cultural and business organizations that support Community in Española!
- Government | Española, NM – Española city government webpage
- The Historic Bond House & Museum, Espanola, NM – “Frank Bond (1863-1945) was a prominent Española merchant who came from Canada in 1882. He established the Española Mercantile, invested in sheep and land, and began the construction of an adobe home and by 1910 the home had grown to the size of the structure today.”
- San Gabriel Historical Society | Espanola, NM – “San Gabriel Historical Society is a non-profit organization in Espanola, New Mexico, dedicated to preserving the history and culture of the local community. Founded in 1986, the society serves as a resource for historical information, educational programs, and community events.“
- Home – Española Valley Chamber of Commerce – Improving Economic Development in Northern New Mexico
- Regional Development Corporation – New Mexico Economic Development – Improving Economic Development in Northern New Mexico
- Home | Tewa Women United – “Tewa Women United (TWU) started in 1989 as a support group for women from the Pueblos of the northern Rio Grande concerned with the traumatic effects of colonization, religious inquisition, and militarization leading to issues such as alcoholism, suicide, domestic/sexual violence and environmental violence. In the safe space we created, we transformed and empowered one another through critical analysis and by embracing and reaffirming our cultural identity.”
- Española Healing Foods Oasis – public garden
- Espanola Pathways Shelter Home page – provides individuals and their families access to an emergency shelter, transitional housing, comprehensive care, and essential supportive services
